Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
